The Official Vintage Grading Guide: How We Grade 90s & Y2K Clothing

At Official Vintage, we don't just flip clothes — we curate history. Because vintage gear has been living its best life for 20 to 30 years, no two pieces are identical. Some are pristine; others have that perfect, worn-in rockstar fade.

To keep our drops consistent and ensure our community knows exactly what they're buying, we use a strict 4-tier grading system. Here is the official breakdown of how we inspect and grade every 90s and Y2K piece before it hits the store.

The Big Five: Our Inspection Protocol

Before assigning a final grade, every garment is laid flat under high-output lighting and run through five core quality checks:

1. The Dry Rot Test: For 90s black tees, we give the hem a gentle but firm tug. If it rips like paper, it's dry rot — and it goes straight to the scrap pile.
2. The Hardware Check: Every zipper, snap, and cargo buckle is tested. If it doesn't function, it doesn't pass.
3. The Silhouette Check: Is the neckline stretched out? Has the piece been accidentally shrunk into a crop top by a previous owner? We check the overall shape and structure.
4. The Graphic Integrity Check: Is the screen print crisp, aesthetically cracked, or actively peeling? Each outcome affects the final grade.
5. The Stain Lockdown: The garment is laid completely flat under white light and checked across all high-risk zones — armpits for yellowing, collar for makeup transfer, and the front belly area for vintage grease. We also flip it to check the back of the sleeves and lower hem. Shiny marks indicate recent chemical damage; faded spots are historical stains that go through our signature soak process.

The Official Vintage Grading System

🌟 Grade A+: Deadstock / Mint Condition

The holy grail. This piece looks like it stepped out of a time machine from 1998.

• Condition: Crisp, unworn, and completely flawless.
• Graphics: Zero cracking, zero fading — print is perfect.
• Hardware: Fully functional and unmarked.
• Fabric: Feels brand new; original fabric stiffness is still present.
• Bonus: Original cardboard store tags still attached (DS — Deadstock).
• Allowed flaws: None.

✨ Grade A: Excellent Vintage Condition

The gold standard for wearable vintage. It's been worn and loved, but cared for flawlessly.

• Condition: Pre-loved but clean. No structural damage.
• Graphics: Minor, natural wash-fade. Light, even cracking that adds to the vintage aesthetic.
• Hardware: Fully functional.
• Fabric: Soft, broken-in, and ready to wear.
• Allowed flaws: None — zero stains, zero holes, no loose seams.

🔨 Grade B: Character / True Vintage Wear

This is where 90s skater, grunge, and workwear pieces thrive. Grade B pieces have stories to tell. We don't hide these flaws — we celebrate them.

• Condition: Thrashed but fully wearable. Pure aesthetic.
• Graphics: Heavy character cracking consistent with age and wear.
• Hardware: All zippers and buttons must still function.
• Fabric: May show heavy fading, minor distressing on cuffs or hems.
• Allowed flaws: Faint historical stains, slight underarm yellowing, up to 2 small pinholes, minor hem distressing.
• Note: Every flaw on a Grade B piece is clearly photographed and documented in the product description. No surprises.

🛑 Grade C: Rework / DIY Material

Pieces that are too damaged to wear as-is, but too iconic to throw away.

• Condition: Major structural damage or unfixable flaws.
• Graphics: Peeling, destroyed, or completely gone.
• Allowed flaws: Major holes, broken hardware, blown-out seams, ruined graphics.
• The move: Grade C pieces do not make the main website drop. They go to our rework team to be cut into vintage patches, reconstructed into tote bags, or used for custom 1-of-1 reworked pieces.

Grading Quick Reference

Frequently Asked Questions

What does Grade A+ mean for vintage clothing?

Grade A+ is our highest condition rating, reserved for deadstock or mint condition vintage pieces. These garments show no signs of wear, fading, or graphic cracking, and often still have original store tags attached. They are the rarest and most collectible items in our inventory.

What is Grade B vintage clothing?

Grade B vintage clothing has visible signs of age and wear — such as fading, minor pinholes, faint historical stains, or heavy graphic cracking — but remains fully wearable. At Official Vintage, every Grade B flaw is photographed and disclosed in the product listing so buyers know exactly what they're getting.

How do you check vintage clothing for dry rot?

Dry rot is most common in older black cotton tees. To test for it, lay the garment flat and give the hem a firm tug. If the fabric tears easily like paper rather than stretching, the fibres have degraded and the piece is not suitable for sale or wear.

What happens to vintage clothing that doesn't pass grading?

Pieces that fail our inspection and receive a Grade C rating are not listed on the main store. Instead, they are sent to our rework team to be repurposed into vintage patches, tote bags, or custom 1-of-1 reconstructed pieces.

How do you spot stains on vintage clothing?

We inspect every garment flat under white light, focusing on high-risk zones: armpits (yellowing), collar (makeup transfer), and the front belly area (grease). We also check the back of the sleeves and lower hem. Shiny marks typically indicate recent chemical damage, while faded discolouration points to historical staining.

What does deadstock mean in vintage clothing?

Deadstock (DS) refers to vintage clothing that was never worn after its original retail sale. These pieces are often still in original packaging or have original store tags attached. Deadstock vintage is the rarest and most sought-after condition in the secondhand clothing market.